Mastering Long-Lasting Lipstick: Expert Tips from Estée Lauder's Makeup Artist

Patrick Lorentz, make-up artist at Estée Lauder, guides us to ensure a (very) long-lasting hold for our lipsticks. And to avoid any transfer.

Since the announcement of their romance, Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce have been the focus of all attention in the United States. Fans of the singer as well as American football fans eagerly await their every kiss. The one who has just won four Grammys regularly displays perfectly outlined lips in red. And even when she throws herself into her lover's arms to kiss him, no trace remains on his face afterward. This raises questions on social media and in the media: how can she leave such red kisses without any transfer? Answer, and tips for everyone, with Patrick Lorentz, make-up artist at Estée Lauder.

However, before delving into the remainder of the article, we recommend that you take a moment to read our piece on Why Lip Oils Have Taken Over Our Handbags Instead of Lipsticks.

Choose the right shades

Lipstick enthusiasts know: it's almost impossible to put it to the test of kisses, or simply meals. "The good news is that the pigments that 'tattoo' the most are reds, especially those with a bit of a blue or violet undertone, cherry reds or fuchsias. But these are also colors that require more work when removing makeup," explains Patrick Lorentz, make-up artist for the Estée Lauder brand.

Prepare your lips

In parallel, there are tricks to prolong the intensity of the red for as long as possible. The makeup artist first advises to prepare your lips well. "You can start with an exfoliation that I recommend doing the day before to prevent chapped lips from damaging the color. It's a bit like when you want to repaint a wall: to make the paint adhere well, you have to wash, but also sand to prevent the paint from chipping." Then, Patrick Lorentz recommends hydrating them well with a balm or oil at the beginning of your routine. "The enemy of makeup is oil. If you apply lipstick immediately on top, it will slip and not hold. So apply your hydrating treatment and let it soak while doing your complexion and taking care of your eyes and eyebrows. Then remove the excess with a tissue so you can apply your lipstick."

Powder

The expert, now a true influencer on social media, whispers another tip that the singer reportedly made her secret, as she revealed to Allure magazine in 2009. "Just take a tissue and split it in two. Apply a first layer of pigment then the fabric on the lips, and powder over it like a sieve to set the material. You can then apply a second layer of pigment and repeat." Patrick Lorentz also emphasizes the importance of using the thinnest layer of tissue possible to let the powder pass through. But what about those who like to have a more satin finish? "In this case, apply a final layer of lipstick without re-powdering to avoid any matte veil. However, I would avoid a touch of gloss as a finishing touch."

Prefer matte

The makeup artist also recommends opting for transfer-proof lipsticks, the so-called "liquid mattes." "There is no oil content so they last longer. But on the flip side, they do not nourish the lips. Daily application of this type of product can therefore lead to dryness. It's important to remember that the lips don't have sebaceous and sweat glands: they don't sweat, they don't produce sebum. So it's the application of balms or oils that will nourish this area," he adds, seeing these "liquid mattes" as the best option to avoid transfer. He further adds: "However, keep in mind that matte doesn't reflect light. If you want to have a very glamorous and well-defined mouth, this finish won't give it to you." For those who want to plump their lips, the makeup artist recommends volumizing effect balms, which are applied before lipstick.

Cheat with a lip liner

Among other tips, the makeup artist suggests relying on a lip liner in the closest shade to the lipstick and in a waterproof version. "You can first define the outline then fill in the interior. This will create a good base and if the lipstick pigments disappear, the lips will still be made up with this waterproof material." The pencil also allows creating an optical illusion if you draw the line slightly above as detailed by the makeup artist. "Keep in mind that light creates volume when dark creates depth. You can also use highlighters in the center of the lip. And by using a slightly darker pencil, you can also create a slight contouring: fill in the outer corners and leave more light in the center."

Use a setting spray

Last advice: use a setting spray to fix the makeup. "We think of it more easily for the complexion but less for the lips and yet, it can really help to set the pigments," explains Patrick Lorentz, who recommends not forgetting the mouth when spraying it on the face.