Discover 4 New Ways to Wear your Eyeliner
Victoria Hidoussi - Madame Figaro
Sophisticated, colorful, graphic... nothing better than this character trait to intensify the look. This season, on the catwalk and in the street, eyeliner is reinvented all over the place. We tell you how to draw it without stress.
Nicole Kidman, Kim Kardashian and Dua Lipa appeared at the Balenciaga haute couture show with their eyes ringed with eyeliner. "It's a way to bring even more character and charisma to the face. It's a real way of expression," said professional makeup artist Marieke Thibaut, national artist for MAC Cosmetics. The line of eyeliner energizes the look and brings much more allure than a classic make-up. It gives confidence and a hyper-affirmed side."
Doubled at Giambattista Valli haute couture, XXL version at Roberto Cavalli, linear at Courrèges, colorful at Giorgio Armani and Valentino... On the catwalks of Fashion Week, the traditional eyeliner line with the pin-up style comma has been replaced by new, more inventive and bold looks. "It's an intergenerational trend," added the expert. You just have to adapt it to the shape of your eye, even if you have a slightly droopy eyelid." It's not a big deal if the line isn't flawless. The important thing is that the line is well positioned, that it does not slide down, and to keep a fresh and natural complexion in return." A few expert tips for practicing before school starts.
It intensifies the look by underlining it rather than highlighting it. "Unlike the classic cat eye, the comma starts from the lower eyelid, explains Fanny Maurer, make-up artist KVD Beauty. I recommend applying a greasy pencil at the base of the lashes, blending lightly with a brush. Place a black eyeshadow on top to set the pencil. Finally, draw the comma with a felt-tip liner to clarify the line if needed." The detail that hits the spot? Extend the end of the line to the inner corner of the eyes: "Just follow the shape of your eye by tilting your head to extend it underneath."
For a few seasons now, it has been split in the outer corner of the eye in a sixties style. It's certainly the easiest trend to reproduce," declared makeup artist Fanny Maurer. You just have to draw a classic comma with a pencil or a felt-tip liner, then make a second one just above the first one, staying parallel to it." To accentuate the retro look and enlarge the eyes at the same time, you can slip a small white line between the two lines, like at this summer's Dior show.
This 1960s look can be scary, yet makeup lovers are reclaiming it with flair on social media. The right method? "Start by drawing a classic comma in the outer corner of the eye, which will serve as a guide. Starting from the tip of this point, draw a curved line in the opposite direction, making a slight return of 1.5 cm on the palpebral crease,” explained the makeup artist Carole Colombani, advising to "stay well above the hollow so that you can see the drawing the eye open.
Fluorescent pink at Valentino, two-tone and decorated with rhinestones at Giorgio Armani, fiery red at Off White, silver at Coach..., it comes in all colors this season. "The ideal for this fall is to pick among the shades of blue or green, suggests the makeup artist Fanny Maurer, and contrary to popular belief, even if you have the same color eyes, it's very beautiful. To go about it smoothly, Sandrine Cano Bock, Chanel make-up artist, recommends "midnight blue, moss green, black red colors. They won't especially create an elongated effect on the eyes, but serve as a make-up "accessory", it's quite fun!"
Pro tips for a perfect line
- Charly Barbier, education & artistry director of Nars: "After a certain age, the eye sags, so the eyeliner line plays on the shape of the eyes. To position it well, it is essential to draw your cat eye with your eyes open, in order to define exactly where you place the tip. There will be less risk of error, and the line will be more precise.”
- Sandrine Cano Bock, Chanel makeup artist: "To ensure good intensity and long wear, first apply your felt, gel or cream eyeliner. Then add a powder blush of the same color on top with a fine brush. This will make the color more even throughout the day."
- Fanny Maurer, make-up artist KVD Beauty: "Even the top pros still resort to the cotton swab. Instead of wetting it with your tongue, you dip it in a drop of concealer and use the edge of the stick to clean up the little line that sticks out or to correct a shape."