Jewelry & Watches
Buccellati Jewellery’s Iconic “Magnolia” Brooch
Rim Nsouli
11-October-2024
Buccellati proposes an iconic object from its creative history: the Magnolia brooch, which has always been of great fascination and success, especially in Eastern countries.
Floral brooches have been central to Buccellati's creative process since its inception, reflecting the Maison's deep inspiration from nature. The Magnolia brooch, introduced in yellow gold in the 1980s by Gianmaria Buccellati for Tokyo's Wako mall, became so popular that new versions were crafted in the 1990s with white gold petals, yellow gold pistils, and later, diamonds. By 2002, these brooches evolved further, incorporating pearls and precious stones.
Following the Magnolia, the collection expanded to include brooches inspired by carnations, lotuses, sunflowers, and more, using Buccellati's signature ‘rigato’ and ‘segrinato’ engraving techniques. The hallmark ‘segrinato’ engraving, used to create soft, natural-looking petals, dates back to the 1930s and was originally applied to silver items before being perfected in jewelry during the 1950s. A standout piece from this era is a rare yellow gold leaf bracelet designed by Mario Buccellati, showcasing the peak of this intricate technique in capturing the beauty of nature.
A series of documents found in the archives highlight the distinct "matt" effect of the 'segrinato' engraving and the uniqueness of this handmade Italian bracelet, now part of the historical Buccellati collection. Restored through the collaboration of two generations of craftsmen, the piece shines once more. This restoration process allowed them to exchange insights and revive the ancient ‘segrinato’ technique, ensuring its preservation for future artisans. Today, this skill is still passed down from father to son, maintaining the Maison’s tradition of excellence.
Buccellati's Magnolia brooch testifies the timelessness of the Maison's designs and demonstrates how the beauty of objects, created in the past, can endure undiminished and fascinate all generations of an entire century and beyond.
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