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Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2026: A Study in Controlled Desire

Rim Nsouli - Photos: Madame Figaro

3-October-2025

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2026: A Study in Controlled Desire

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At Paris Fashion Week, seduction stepped into silence — not shouted, but imposed. Haider Ackermann’s SS26 show unfolded like a nocturnal film sequence: a lacquered runway gleaming in the dark and models emerging through beams of light.

Ackermann translated Tom Ford’s legacy of high-voltage glam into something sharper, more intellectual. Tailoring rose like architecture: elongated blazers, sculpted pencil skirts, second-skin vinyl suits that moved with military discipline. Then came the contrast: dresses in liquid silks and translucent chiffons.

Colors were treated like emotions. Dazzling whites, deep blacks, toxic greens, syrup pinks, and electric blues flickered across the runway. Fabrics begged to be touched: polished leather, cashmere like smoke, silk that clung like breath.

Accessories whispered: metal-ring sandals, sleek patent heels. There was no nostalgia here. No attempt to replicate Tom Ford’s past. Instead, Ackermann proposed a new definition of Desire, not in exposure, but in control.



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