Jacquemus Presents Mature Spring-Summer 2024 Collection
Clara Dufour – Madame Figaro
At the Maeght Foundation, in the South of France to which he is deeply attached, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus presented a Spring-Summer 2024 collection exuding a more mature sensuality and femininity.
The setting was magical. Under a clear blue sky, surrounded by umbrella pines and endless art pieces, the Maeght Foundation near Saint-Paul-de-Vence encapsulates the spirit of an ultimate art of living, entirely dedicated to beauty. It was in this mythical place, housing works of some of the most important artists of the 20th century (Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, Georges Braque...), that Simon Porte Jacquemus chose to present his "Sculptures" collection, immediately available in stores. "I am obsessed with design," the creator, born in the south of France, emphasizes. "I wanted to show a collection that tells who I am today, what I love, what I am passionate about," he explains. It is worth mentioning that Deva Cassel made a special appearance during the show. So, if you're interested in checking her look, you can read our article Deva Cassel Shines at Jacquemus' 'Sculptures' Collection Show.
Humor and Sophistication
The starting point of the "Sculptures" collection? The works of artist Alberto Giacometti, famous for his bronze sculptures of slender men and women that seem to sway in space. Jacquemus' silhouettes share this same slim, sleek, elongated profile, dressed in long black dresses that hug their shapes, like a pencil line drawn between the ground and the sky. But they are neither fragile nor unreal. "When I started working on this collection, I had two opposing ideas in mind: Giacometti's sculptures... and bourgeois clichés. I wanted to bring these two worlds together." With humor, Simon Porte Jacquemus transforms these "sculpture silhouettes" into women of the upper quarters, stepping out in draped tops like sweaters tied over their shoulders, a quintessential bourgeois cliché.
They wear strict suits disrupted by two-tone shoes or double footwear for a surreal touch. They showcase cream coats with rounded sleeves and XXL collars, exemplified by the look worn by Gigi Hadid opening the show. They parade in evening gowns embroidered with swirling silk threads, very couture, called "horse tails." "I imagined a woman who rides horses, that's why she wears leggings, high boots and carries her bag like a riding helmet," the designer continues. "There's something seemingly cold in this look with these buttoned-up shirt collars, but soon everything becomes sunnier, more sensual, more 'Jacquemus'." The bride perfectly sums up this marriage of contrasts: sculptural with a custom-molded bodice, plunging backless design, and traditional veil.
Kylie Jenner and Julia Roberts as Guest Stars
This precise, very accurate collection, probably one of the most successful and complete of the designer, addresses a more accomplished woman rather than a young woman in the making. "It's true, it's not the silhouette of a young girl as I might have proposed in my other collections," he confirms. "I wanted to propose a new sensuality, that of a more mature woman, who would have grown up with me. I've been in this business for fifteen years and it's time to think about the brand in the long term, to speak both to our young clients and to those who have evolved with us." This intention was also reflected in the choice of guests, as alongside Gen Z star Kylie Jenner, who came with her 5-year-old daughter Stormi (and her 399 million Instagram followers), Jacquemus invited representatives of another generation, Kristin Davis (Charlotte York in Sex & the City) and the rarely seen Oscar-winning actress Julia Roberts.
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