Hermès and its Incendiary Chic in Colors of Fall/Winter

In the heart of the Republican Guard, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski, artistic director of the saddler's women's collections, presented a very spirited version of femininity.

"It's not interesting to encapsulate a woman, I prefer to talk about the spirit of femininity," warned Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski, artistic director of the House of Hermès, when asked, backstage, about her vision of the Hermès woman for next winter. The discreet virtuoso designer who composes, since his arrival in the house in 2016, a fluid, modern and sensual wardrobe with the materials of exception of the saddler, therefore prefers to talk to us about the strength and ardor that animated the mood of his collection fall-winter 2023-2024.

Textures of luxury

From the first runway, the catwalk is ablaze with a girl of absolute elegance wearing a tunic and Bermuda shorts in fiery red. The collection deploys monochrome silhouettes - from copper brown to blond beige to deep black - and offers slit or pleated skirts in textured lamé mesh like tree bark. With their skin-tight waders, these chic and sensual girls also love comfort and wrap themselves in luxurious cashmere or intarsia shearling coats, belt their alpaca trench coats or slip on quilted hooded parkas in an attitude as assertive as it is casual.

Perpetual movement

Everything moves and pulsates around them when they walk. No doubt because the play of textures and lights, the metallic details and the subtle styling effects give this modern Parisian wardrobe a perpetual movement. With their Birkin bag in harness, their Bermuda suit, their satin bomb hat and their little spencer jacket, they move forward, confident and naturally elegant. They also like to twist the drapes, protect themselves from the cold in knitwear, tie their coats or jackets in a ponytail at the back, and make their black leather jackets or pants vibrate. In the evening, their sublime long pleated dresses in hammered metallic silk seem to undulate like the suppleness of shiny hair. A concentrate of pure allure.